I stepped from Plank to Plank
A slow and cautious way
The Stars about my Head I felt
About my feet the Sea.

I knew not but the next
Would be my final inch -
This gave me that precarious Gait
Some call Experience.

Emily Dickinson, c. 1864

Sunday, January 24, 2021

Forty years ago

Machu Picchu 1981

While I was looking at old pictures during my quest to "uncover" much of my forgotten past, I found this one of me sitting in a sacred place in Machu Picchu in Peru. If I didn't know that was me, I would never have recognized myself. Forty years ago! How much has happened to me since then.

I had been working at the National Center for Atmospheric Research since 1979, and I always had wanted to travel, especially to see this magnificent place. Circumstances and a bit of luck gave me an opportunity to visit Peru. I had decided to travel by myself and take enough gear so that I could go on some days-long hikes, hoping to find others in Lima who would accompany me. However, I was willing to do whatever it took to be able to hike the Inca Trail. As it turned out, a friend hooked me up with another woman who would travel with me. Marla knew not one word of Spanish and needed someone to help her with the language. Although certainly not fluent, I knew enough Spanish to get by. And so, in October 1981, we flew to Lima and stayed at a hostel, before deciding to travel to Cusco, where we would be able to take a train to the beginning of the trail. Most people took three or four days to travel through the minor Incan ruins before coming to the main attraction, Machu Picchu. 

I have learned since then that traveling to Machu Picchu is entirely different today. Now there is a luxury hotel near the site, and a cable car takes tourists from there to the main ruins. A friend went there a few years ago, and the pictures he showed me looked nothing like the place I visited so long ago. You even have to queue in long lines to get in. Totally different from my experience.

Marla and I took a local train to Kilometer 88, where we began the 26-mile-long trip. We got off the train with about a dozen other hikers from all over the world. I think we were the only Americans and nobody else spoke any English. Everybody strapped on their backpacks and took off at a fast pace. We waited until the last, and then when we were on the trail itself, we saw very few other hikers during the next days. I found this site that tells about the trip:

The trip begins in the town of Qorihuayrachina, at kilometer 88 of the Quillabamba railway - Cusco and takes 3 to 4 days of strenuous hiking, it is the road that takes tourists to Machu Picchu. The route consists of an impressive variety of altitudes, climates and ecosystems ranging from the Andean plain to the cloud forest.

Now, you are expected to stay in the campgrounds that exist along the trail, but in those days you just had to find a place to camp on your own. There were no porta-potties or even water sources that seemed safe. We used iodine drops in our water to keep from picking up bacteria. It was a very memorable adventure, and it reminds me that I have been making long and difficult hikes for much longer than I remembered. I made this trip a full decade before I discovered skydiving and stopped everything else, including backpacking and strenuous hikes. 

During the two months I spent in Peru, I made four different trips into the mountains, two with Marla, and two with other solo hikers I met while staying in hostels that catered to tourists like me. These days, I am actually a bit surprised and impressed with the adventurous spirit that I seemed to have back then. And so much has transpired in my life since that time. Looking back, I am so glad that I was able to have such exciting events and still have a few memories that recall such a distant adventure.

Yesterday was a glorious day to be out and about, here in the Pacific Northwest, many decades later. Although I am much older now and my hair is white and my body much used and abused, I can still walk several miles at a time and enjoy being outdoors, breathing fresh air and taking in the sunshine. I will continue to do all this until the day comes when I must stop. Fortunately, it is not happening today or tomorrow, I hope. I will give it all I have until that day comes.

If you don't design your own life plan, chances are you'll fall into someone else's plan. And guess what they have planned for you? Not much. —Jim Rohn

Forty years later, I am pretty much done with traveling for adventure. I am now looking forward to what comes next, whatever it might be. As I explore my past decades, I'm finding that I have truly lived a good life and have much to be grateful for. Not the least of which is my ability to recall times and places that are still bright spots in my memories. 

Forty years ago, I could not have imagined the life I live today. I could never have imagined knowing so many people around the world through the magic of the internet, through the words and pictures of wonderful friends that I will never meet, but who mean everything to me. I am filled with gratitude for it all. And for my dear partner, who sleeps beside me as I write. For my life as it was, as it is today, and for what it will yet become. 

Until we meet again next week, dear friends, I wish you all good things. Be well.

18 comments:

Linda Reeder said...

I am coming to your Sunday post a bit more on schedule today. I just spent my first full night in my bed post surgery. After a 4:00 trip to the bathroom I managed to get back to sleep fairly quickly. I was happy to see that it was 7:00 when I awoke. Yay! I made it. And I made it as far as our upstairs home office, where I have parked myself in front of my computer while Tom sleeps on.
Your Peru trip sounds amazing, something I don't think I could have managed even 40 years ago.
WE traveled quite a bit after we both retired. I miss traveling, but I don't know if there is much more of it in my future. I'm pretty sure we are done with international travel, so I am very grateful for the memories we have of the great trips we were fortunate enough to make.
As the sky begins to lighten I see that we've had a bit of rain but no snow yet. I was hoping for the fun of a little white stuff this morning, since there is nowhere to go anyway.
Maybe you'll get some. Be safe.

gigi-hawaii said...

My niece went to Peru a few years ago and enjoyed it. I could never have done what you did. It seems so strenuous.

ApacheDug said...

Machu Picchu?! Gosh DJan, just amazing. I’ve done my share of reading about the Incas & Mayans and to think you’ve visited this Incan place, hidden from the world for hundreds of years... wonderful that you got to visit there. I can’t remember where I saw it, but some travel piece showed amazing sites like this, and how it was to travel to these places 50 years ago compared to today. Thanks to a better global economy and rise in the planet’s population, they’re all costly tourist attractions now; you’re fortunate to have visited there when you did. Had to smile when you wrote these days are behind you though, compared to an armchair traveler like myself, you’re still out there adventuring on a weekly basis! Thanks for sharing & I hope you and your partner have a lovely week ahead.

Marie Smith said...

What a great adventure you had. You are one of the most adventurous people I know, Jan. What a great life. I love how you mentioned what is to come because I think it is so important to be open to new things, new adventures as along as we can. Age is just a number. It doesn’t have to define what we do. Well done my friend.

Rian said...

That is an unbelievable photo, DJan. It could have been in Life magazine. You certainly did more adventurous things in your life than I ever have. Probably the most for me was getting a BS in Animal Science (1968) when there were only 2 women in the entire Veterinary Medical class at that time. Today it's so different. But I'm happy that you have so many wonderful memories (not that they were all wonderful I realize). But you seem to have persevered and come to this stage of your life with understanding and gratitude. You can look back and smile (even if its sometimes through tears).

John's Island said...

Hi DJan, What a surprise. A trip to see Machu Picchu has been near the top of my wish list for literally years. That picture of you is wonderful. I wish I knew more about what the space you were in is called. I also wonder what it was like to be in those areas when the roof existed. I enjoyed the story of your arrival in Peru and taking the trail to the citadel. The 26-mile hike sounds amazing. You have sure had some great experiences in your life and thank you for sharing them with us. It is great that forty years later you are still getting out for long walks. Thanks for another fine Eye on the Edge. Have a good week ahead and stay safe.

Far Side of Fifty said...

So interesting that you were there! My ex brother in law that died two years ago from Cancer traveled to Peru several times...he always sent me photos of beautiful flowers...he stayed in Hostels also...and met many different people. What an adventure you had!
I am too old for adventures anymore...although I would like to go someplace warm for a couple of weeks...when it is safe :) Hope you have a good week.

William Kendall said...

I'd love to visit that place.

Red said...

A 40 year time span makes for a good comparison. Yes it's hard to realize how much we're changed physically . The main part is upstairs and as you say we work with what we've got. we have to make ourselves keep moving ahead. Major changes have to be made but we pursue those changes as hard as other things we've done.

Linda Myers said...

What a great photo! I've never been there, but probably won't go now. Too much altitude, plus I'd be frustrated by all the crowds.

Margaret said...

40 years is about half a life, more possibly. But it is actually many different lifetimes and stages, in my opinion. I'm not the same person I was even two years ago. I am still ready to travel post-pandemic; there are a few more places I'd like to hit before I'm too old or too dead.

Betsy said...

You certainly have had an interesting life, full of adventures and wonder.
I have visited some Mayan ruins while on a cruise a few yars ago. I couldn't do the most strenuous of the hikes because I wasn't feeling well. Unknown to me, I ended up with a pacemaker less than a month after arriving home. At the time I felt like a wimp, but afterwards I realized that it was a good thing I listened to my body and didn't push, I probably wouldn't have survived the trip according to my cardiologist. As it is, I'm not allowed to stand in lines, be in hot, humid places for long, etc.
I truly enjoy reading your blog each week and learning more about you.
Blessings,
Betsy

Rosie said...

Machu Pichu was once on my bucket list, but I never got there, but no regrets as there are many places I have travelled and there are many that I never will, that's life and we make the best of it. Thank goodness for the internet as we can travel the world through it, and who would have thought that possible 40 years ago. Memories are wonderful and as we get older I am enjoying my memories, but just in case I am making photo books of many of my travels so I can enjoy looking at photos that haven't deteriorate throgh time. I do enjoy reading your blog even though I don't often comment. Stay safe and keep well.

Mary said...

Love the quote about taking charge of your life. I’m ready to take some more "charge", but covid has certainly put a damper on that. There are many fine travel documentaries on Utube and some of the streaming venues, that are wonderful, when you can no longer actually go in person. I did a good bit of travel in the US, which I am internally grateful for. Now it’s more finding someone to go with and changes on health.

Anvilcloud said...

You always were a hiker.

You probably took up skydiving later, but just think that you have parachuted in. :)

Arkansas Patti said...

It seems when ever I hear someone mention Machu Picchu, there is always wistfulness or pride in their voice depending on whether they wish to go or have gone. I am so impressed that you did go and in a time when it was not very easy. You have such an amazing spirit that I admire, and a backload of memories to be envied. You keep going girl.

Rita said...

If I ever had a bucket list Machu Picchu would have been on it. ;) You have really had such a life filled with adventures! You are still busy making more. What a blessing. :)

Glenda Beall said...

As always, I am impressed by your adventurous spirit. I was never physically able to hike long trails or up and down trails, but I did enjoy the hiking we did when we moved here to NC. You still have adventures ahead, I'm sure, because you are always one to look for a challenge. At our age, we take on those challenges we know we can accomplish, but still enjoy. thanks for the photo and the post.